Life is Good And Only Getting Better

By just being their furry adorable, lovable doodles selves, Australian Labradoodles help us feel treasured and joyful. This not only boosts our quality of lif, it raises the oh-so-important questions. What have we done for them lately? Of course, we provide food, medical care, a home, grooming, toys and other amenities, but what exactly do we do to increase their happiness quotient? Here is a short list of ways to improve the quality of our Australian Labradoodle’s lives.

1. Turn up the dial on the exercise meter.
Australian Labradoodles adore activity, hence, the crazy exuberance most display at the very whisper of a walk An extra long hike, joining you on a run or talking a few short outing in addition to those daily walks will be well received. Look for a place your dog can enjoy a safe off lease run, which will make the experience even more enjoyable for him.

2. Fight boredom.
Give your dog more mental exercise with mind engaging activities such as enrichment puzzles, new toys, visits to new places, and learning new skills and tricks.

4. Rub them the right way.
Most Australian Labradoodles like most people adore a good massage. It not only promotes relaxation, healing and bonding it feels soooo good.

3.  Give them a hand.

Most Australian Labradoodles learn visual signals faster than verbal ones.  When training, communicate more clearly by using hand signals along with words. Your dog will have a figurative sigh of relief at finally being able to understand you.

5. Stop and smell the world.
Australian Labradoodles need to be dogs, and that means allowing them time to explore the world’s wonderful odors. Or, engage them in scent work. Using their noses comes naturally, so tracking or playing scent games is fun for dogs.

6. Free them from fashion.
Consider removing your dog’s collar at night. Dogs will probably enjoy the freedom just as much as we do when we take off our belts, watches or earrings. Plus, the noise of jingling tabs bothers many dogs; to reduce it use Boomerang brand tags that slide on to the collar.

7. Feed the well.
While the debate about canine nutrition rages, most people agree that if they could afford to they would feed their dog the best food available that they would. Start by selecting an all stages food made in the USA not China. Life’s Abundance is one such food. Human grade meats, no corn or wheat, no artificial colors or flavors, high in antioxidants and is quality tested before shipping and comes right to your door in 2-3 days from ordering.

8. Keep them tidy.
Good grooming is essential, Australian Labradoodles are most comfortable when their coats are orderly and free of mats that tug uncomfortably at their skin. Abolishing tangles helps them eliminate more easily, I have seen dogs whose hind quarters were so full of mats that this was an issue and short toenails allow for easier movement comfortably. And no matter how darling your Australian Labradoodle may look with hair hanging over her eyes or how popular that style is for the breed a haircut that allows for unobstructed vision is a better and sager choice. BUT do not shave an Australian Labradoodle as their coat insulates them from the harsh summer sun and helps trap air between the unmatted layers of their coat to help keep them cool.

9. Play it up.
Make play dates for your Australian Labradoodle with other nice, well socialized pups. Most dogs love to play with other dogs and their exhilaration is palpable as they frolic together.

10. Sharpen your focus.
Australian Labradoodles value the time we spend focused completely on them, and that is easiest to do without anyone else present. This quality time is especially valuable and important in multi dog households.

Improving your Australian Labradoodle’s quality of life is a gift that keeps on giving. The more wonderful we make life for our dogs, the more ways they enhance our own.

Does My Australian Labradoodle Need Vaccinated Every Year?

No, not really, they don’t. The short and sweet answer reflects a major change in the thing of veterinarians, one that merits a detailed explanation. Giving dogs in general not just Labradoodles yearly vaccine boosters against the Big Three viral diseases: distemper, parvo and hepatitis was accepted veterinary practice until the late 1990s. Why? Because exactly how long the vaccines protected the dogs against those diseases was unclear. Vaccine manufactures typically tested their products’ effectiveness under laboratory condition to a year or two post-vaccine, and then stopped testing. Veterinarians wanted to be certain dogs remained protected, and the vaccines themselves were considered perfectly safe, so we adopted a practice of getting our Australian Labradoodles vaccinated annually.

Then our conviction that dogs and cat vaccines were absolutely safe was rocked. In the late 1990s, it was found that vaccines had caused malignant tumors at the injection site in a small number of cats. Although the vaccine/cancer connection has only yet to be made in cats there has been a recent connection to malignant tumors in dogs at the injection site of microchips!?! Suspiciously enough this is the same location that nearly 99% of all veterinarians give vaccine injections! A recent discussion with my veterinarian about wheather or not to continue microchipping my own puppies lead us to the discussion of vaccination sites vs. the microchip. < this is a HOT TOPIC and I am sure to write about it in the future but for now back to the topic of vaccinations. Veterinarians and animal owners alike began to question the more-is-better philosophy of vaccine boosters.

Researches started compiling statistics on the long-term effectiveness of vaccines. The data came mainly from vaccine manufactures' tests, measurement of antibody titers in vaccinated dogs, and natural disease outbreaks, rather than new challenge studies where dogs were deliberately exposed to viruses to see if they would become ill. One influential report by veterinay researcher R. D. Schultz, published in 2000, stated that the currently available vaccines against parvo, distemper and hepatitis remained effective for at least seven years in most pets.

Rabies is effective for at least three years again in most healthy pets but is a public health issue as well as for animals, and states regulate how often pets must receive a rabies booster. The frequency ranges from every year to every three years, depending on how prevalent rabies is in that state.

Vaccines against kennel cough, lyme and leptosspirosis are also exceptions. those diseases are bacterial or only partly bacterial in the case of kennel cough and vaccines against bacterial diseases are only thought to be effective for 6 to 12 months. Studies have not been done to actually determine the longevity of titers on bacterial diseases.

In 2006 the American Animal Hospital Association release its canine vaccine guidelines. Those guidelines recommend that your pet should receive booster vaccines against distemper, hepatitis and parvo ever three years or even less often at the veterinarian's discretion. To date, however the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), has not endorsed any specific vaccine protocol. Their position is that individual veterinarians should set their own protocols based on local and individual risk. In the real world that is what most veterinarians do however some less educated or more money motivated veterinarians recommend annual boosters. In a perfect world veterinarians would order blood tests to measure antibody levels or titers against these diseases followed by a booster in dog where titers are to low to be considered protected. I am sure however that the backlash from pet owners would be to high for most veterinarians, I already overhear at least one complaint per veterinary visit of someone who doesn't want to pay for the blood test for heartworm disease and antibody tests are more expensive than vaccines so most dog owners would choose to skip this option when given by their veterinarian.

Some things have not changed during this shift in thinking about vaccines. It is still recommend that puppies receive a series of vaccines followed by a booster when they turn one year old and all dogs should be on heartworm prevention and have a physical examination once a year so that illnesses can be detected and treated sooner rather than later.

What Every Australian Labradoodle Needs

Behavior problems can sometimes develop in dogs when their intrinsic and instinctive needs are not properly satisfied. Most people do a good job of fulfilling their dogʼs basic needs by providing
sincere affection, adequate food, safe shelter, and regular veterinary care. But dogs have other needs that are just as critical to their well-being. If these arenʼt adequately met, a dog may develop psychological problems. Essential to preventing behavior problems and to help ensure a dogʼs behavioral wellness are:
• Appropriate Daily Exercise and Physical Activity
• Positive Social Interactions
• Brain Games: Training and Mental Stimulation
• Benevolent Leadership and Constructive Guidance

Appropriate Daily Exercise and Physical Activity
“A tired dog is a well-behaved dog.” Perhaps you have heard this phrase before. Well, it is definitely true! Vigorous exercise can go a long way to prevent canine mischief.

It makes good sense, too, if you really think about it. Many of the most popular breeds of dogs in this country were originally bred to be hard-working, contributing members of the family, not just pets: Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Border Collies, Springer Spaniels, Australian Shepherds, Rottweilers, Hounds, Cocker Spaniels, Terriers of every name and type, Standard Poodles, Beagles—the list goes on and on. After a long day of herding sheep, guarding livestock or property, digging up vermin, or tracking and hunting, these intelligent and athletic working dogs return home exhausted and content.

But when todayʼs pet dog becomes a couch-potato—or worse, is banished to a backyard kennel—his primal need for heavy, tongue-dragging daily exercise and meaningful activity goes unsatisfied, and
behavior problems may be the result. Weʼve seen many cases in which certain behavior problems (particularly those arising from inactivity or boredom) have simply vanished when the owner has
provided sufficient and appropriate physical activity and exercise every day.

Positive Social Interactions
Dogs are social beings. They were never meant to live in isolation. Their canine “cousins” in the wild live in tightly-knit social groups and engage in highly organized group activities like tracking and
hunting their food, guarding and protecting the pack, and play.

The demands of our busy modern lifestyle and extended workdays force many of our pet dogs to spend long hours alone and isolated. This takes a toll on their mental and emotional well-being. Itʼs vital that families find ways to provide their dogs with fun and interesting opportunities for quality social interactions with people of all kinds—new people as well as family members—and with other dogs. This on-going socialization of your dog with people and other animals will help prevent many types of fear and aggression from developing.

Brain Games: Training and Mental Stimulation
Dogs have keen, intelligent minds. Just like people, they need to think and learn new things throughout their lives to stay mentally healthy. Lack of mental stimulation often leads to boredom; and boredom is the number one cause of many problem behaviors such as destructive chewing, excessive barking, and yard destruction.

Dogs need interesting things to do! Start with the basics—train your dog to sit and stay, settle down, come when called, greet people and other dogs appropriately, and walk nicely on a leash, so you will want to take him places and he will be welcome everywhere.

Get your dog hooked on hollow chew toys stuffed with his daily food ration so he has to work hard to pull the food out in order to eat. This activity will keep your dog content and occupied while you and your family are away at work or school. It will also tire him out so heʼs more likely to snooze during his time alone.

Have fun with your dog and play interactive games of fetch and tug to build your relationship and to burn off pent-up energy. Teach your dog amusing tricks. Set up jumps, ramps and tunnels in the backyard to challenge your dog. You can even use play and games as powerful reinforcements (“real life rewards”) during training. You are only limited by your imagination when thinking up fun and mentally stimulating things for your dog to do.

Benevolent Leadership and Constructive Guidance
All social groups need leadership to avoid dissolving into chaos. A true leader is not a dictator, but an understanding, fair and benevolent guide. Traditional, old-school thinking about the need to “dominate” dogs or be the “alpha of the pack” is based on faulty conclusions drawn from outdated and inaccurate studies of wolf behavior—studies that have been refuted by newer research.

Attempts to physically force, dominate, or intimidate a dog will backfire and result in a failed relationship. Using force and dominance is also potentially very dangerous to humans, especially when a large and cooperative dog is involved. Such methods inevitably destroy trust and any possibility of mutual respect or a loving bond, and are totally unnecessary. Dogs respond more quickly, willingly, and happily to benevolent leadership rather than physical dominance. Just like we do!

The qualities needed to provide effective, benevolent leadership for a dog are the same we desire to see in any good and fair leader of humans. Benevolent leaders build trust by dwelling on the positive, not the negative. They ensure that the individual performing a task is given the knowledge, understanding, structure and resources necessary to carry out that task successfully. Effective leaders donʼt dwell on mistakes; instead, they redirect energy to produce a positive outcome. They encourage good performance by expressing trust and respect all along the way. And great leaders reward a job well done with something meaningful and desirable.

Your dog needs an understanding, fair, and consistent teacher and guide, not a dictator. Once you start to provide this type of benevolent leadership for your dog, you will be well on your way to a successful and harmonious relationship.

20 Uses for Dog Tricks

1. Tricks engage your dog’s mind and provide mental exercise.
2. Tricks are fun and make the learning process for children (and adults!) more enjoyable.
3. Tricks can make breeds with a “bad reputation” look friendlier.
4. Tricks can help make shelter dogs more adoptable.
5. Tricks can be used to solve barking: A dog who barks at visitors could be taught to go get a toy and hold it in his mouth instead.
6. Tricks can be used to solving jumping on people: A dog who jumps to greet people could be taught to sit and wave instead.
7. Tricks are a great way to strengthen the dog-owner bond. People are relaxed when teaching tricks and it’s great fun for dog and owner.
8. Tricks add variety to training.
9. Tricks allow you to “show off” what you’ve accomplished with your dog.
10. Tricks can be practiced indoors or out, regardless of the weather.
11. Tricks can be used to help endear your dog to someone not traditionally a dog lover.
12. Tricks increase your dog’s repertoire of behaviors. The more your dog learns, the better your dog learns and the more mentally engaged he will be.
13. Tricks are more fun to teach for people “put off” by obedience training: “Bang you’re dead” is the same behavior to your dog as “down”—but you have fun with it.
14. Tricks provide a way to practice your dog’s “manners.”
15. Tricks are entertaining and they can make people think you and your dog are both geniuses!
16. Tricks can be useful. For example, teach your dog to get your slippers or bring in the newspaper on rainy days.
17. Tricks engage the entire family, particularly children.
18. Tricks make you laugh!
19. Tricks can be entertaining for people on therapy visits at places like hospitals.
20. Tricks can distract a reactive dog from something that scares him.

15 Uses for Walking Without Pulling (a.k.a. Loose Leash Walking)

1. Walking without pulling to keep Australian Labradoodle from dislocating your shoulder!
2. Walking without pulling prevents your Labradoodle from pulling you into the street or other dangerous situations.
3. Walking without pulling keeps your Labradoodle from pulling you toward other dogs or people you encounter.
4. Walking without pulling stops Labradoodles from investigating dangerous things or rolling in stinky ones!
5. Walking without pulling allows you to decide when to stop for sniffing breaks and when to keep walking.
6. Walking without pulling is healthier for your Labradoodle because you’re more likely to want to walk him.
7. Walking without pulling prevents your Labradoodle from choking on a collar or rubbing against a harness.
8. Walking without pulling reduces stress on your Labradoodle’s spine.
9. Walking without pulling means you’re walking together—in partnership.
10. Walking without pulling allows parents to push a baby stroller and walk your Labradoodle at the same time.
11. Walking without pulling allows a physically smaller/weaker person to safely walk a Labradoodle.
12. Walking without pulling helps your Labradoodle transmit a calmer message to other dogs that you encounter while on walks.
13. Walking without pulling helps you control your Australian Labradoodle’s access to rewards while on the walk.
14. Walking without pulling doesn’t send anxiety signals down the leash to your anxious dog if you see something that makes him reactive.
15. Walking without pulling allows you to walk your Labradoodle on a crowded street.

15 Uses for Coming When Called

1. Call your dog back to you if he runs out the door.
2. Call your dog away from barking at squirrels out the window.
3. Call your dog back into the house if he’s barking at something in the yard.
4. Call your dog away from bothering the cat.
5. Call your dog when it’s time for a walk or to go for a drive.
6. Call your dog off of spilt food or toxic items on the ground.
7. Call your dog when he’s starting to bother your other dog (e.g., a puppy annoying an older dog).
8. Call your dog as emergency cue when dog is running off or toward danger.
9. Call your dog to do something he enjoys (make sure your dog learns “come” means good things will happen!)
10. Call your dog away from the door when the doorbell rings.
11. Call your dog away from the mail coming through the mail slot.
12. Call your dog when you’re ready to feed him his dinner.
13. Call your dog to you at the dog park or dog beach to keep him from pestering other dogs or people.
14. Call your dog back to shore when he’s swimming in the lake or ocean too far out.
15. Call your dog during games with the family, like hide and seek.

20 Uses for Wait/Stay

1. Wait/stay to keep dog from jumping into or out of the car before you’re ready for him to.
2. Wait/stay to keep dog from rushing out the front door.
3. Wait/stay to keep dog from counter surfing in your kitchen.
4. Wait/stay before released to eat meal you’ve presented.
5. Wait/stay at dog park for you to unclip leash to let dog run.
6. Wait/stay at doorways when needed (e.g., to back yard).
7. Wait/stay at the top/bottom of stairs prevents your dog from tripping you.
8. Wait/stay prevents your dog jumping up on guests.
9. Wait/stay prevents your dog from “taking candy from the baby.”
10. Wait/stay puts your dog in a relaxed “down” during your dinner.
11. Wait/stay while you put on your dog’s leash and collar before a walk.
12. Wait/stay prevents your dog getting to something you drop, such as a chicken bone.
13. Wait/stay to help teach your dog self control.
14. Wait/stay to keep your dog from rushing other people or dogs.
15. Wait/stay while allowing another dog or person to pass by.
16. Wait/stay on a walk when you stop to pick up after your dog.
17. Wait/stay while owner pays for items at the pet supply store.
18. Wait/stay to keep dog from getting over-stimulated by any exciting situation.
19. Wait/stay to keep your dog from rushing into the house before you can clean his paws from a muddy or wet back yard, or after he’s jumped in the pool and he’s all wet!
20. Wait/stay allows you to enter through a doorway first, useful if you’re carrying something such as bags of groceries and you don’t want to have dogs underfoot in the doorway!

25 Uses for Down

1. Down for a veterinary exam.
2. Down for husbandry tasks such as clipping back nails.
3. Down as emergency cue when dog is running off or toward danger.
4. Down stay while family eats a meal.
5. Down stay on a mat away from door when visitors enter home.
6. Down stay when encountering something you need to go deal with (e.g., something dangerous like a snake, helping someone who’s fallen down).
7. Down stay while dinner is being prepared.
8. Down stay while working with another dog in the house.
9. Down stay while you are doing sit ups or yoga.
10. Down stay while you are getting the children ready to leave for school.
11. Down stay when being petted by small children.
12. Down on a mat with a bone or chew toy when the family wants to relax in the evening.
13. Down stay can discourage some dogs from barking at other dogs, such as in a training class.
14. Down to prevent your dog from running off.
15. Down at the door to stop your dog from jumping on guests.
16. Down at the door to prevent your dog rushing out when you open it.
17. Down and roll on his side for grooming.
18. Down and relax while you’re watching TV or using your computer.
19. Down and relax while you visit with friends and relatives.
20. Down stay to prevent your dog being underfoot when you’re working in the kitchen/busy.
21. Down stay at family gatherings such as birthday parties.
22. Down stay at outdoor events such as kids’ soccer games.
23. Down stay on a walk when you stop to pick up after your dog.
24. Down to teach the “rollover” trick.
25. Down to teach the “play dead/go to sleep” trick.

25 Uses for Sit

1. Sit at the door when guests enter (no jumping up!)
2. Sit to have leash and collar put on before going out.
3. Sit when front door opens for walk until released to move forward.
4. Sit in the kitchen to avoid counter surfing.
5. Sit while food is being served at the dinner table.
6. Sit while bowls are being put on the ground to prevent rushing and spilling the bowl.
7. Sit before getting in the car so you can load it first.
8. Sit when you open the car door so your dog doesn’t jump out into traffic.
9. Sit at sidewalk curbs to wait until it’s safe to cross the street.
10. Sit and look at you instead of barking at other dogs on a walk.
11. Sit to prevent your dog from running off.
12. Sit while you get your keys out at the front door.
13. Sit to clip nails on front paws.
14. Sit at the top/bottom of a staircase so you don’t trip over your dog.
15. Sit before owner throws favorite toy. Repeat for each toss.
16. Sit before taking down the baby gate or other management barrier, or before coming out of the crate.
17. Sit calmly to have front feet dried off in rain/muddy weather.
18. Sit patiently while owner pets or treats other dogs in the household.
19. Sit stay while owner pays for items at the pet supply store.
20. Sit stay while others pass by when you’re on an off-leash hike.
21. Sit stay to keep dog from getting over-stimulated by any exciting situation.
22. Sit to give a “high 5” trick.
23. Sit to do the “say your prayers” trick.
24. Sit to do the “sit up and beg” trick.
25. Sit stay on a walk when you stop to pick-up after your dog

Teach Your Australian Labradoodle to Play

Having an Australian Labradoodle that loves to play with toys is a great benefit when training your Labradoodle. Many dogs, however, have trouble playing with toys. You can teach your Labradoodle to enjoy playing with toys and use them to motivate your Labradoodle in training.

1. First, choose your toy. You are not going to allow your Labradoodle to have this toy at any time, except for when you and he are playing with it. When you are not playing, keep the toy someplace where your Labradoodle can see it, but can’t get to it, such as on top of a refrigerator or on a bookshelf.
2. A good toy is one that can be thrown around but won’t roll like a ball. Braided rope toys, tug toys (ball on a rope or Kong on a rope, etc.), squeaky stuffed animals, or even a ball in an old sock are good choices. Another good toy to use is rabbit skins, which can be purchased from trading post-type stores.
3. Tease your Australian Labradoodle with excited, goofy chatter about the toy – i.e. “Where is it? What is it? Do you want it? Do you need it? Where’s the toy?“
4. Go and get the toy, while continuing to chatter to him excitedly, and show the toy to your dog – be real dramatic, like you just pulled out a big beef sirloin or a rabbit out of a hat!
5. Start to play with the toy yourself, throwing it in the air, swinging it around your body, teasing it in front of the Labradoodle’s face, swinging it between your legs, etc. Act excited and goofy, this is no time for maintaining one’s self respect!
6. Take the toy and throw it. If your Labradoodle runs after it, run with him and grab it before he can g et to it, and repeat teasing him and playing with it. Another way to do this is to attach a cord or fishing line to the toy, so that when you throw it, you can pull it back away from the dog before he can get to it.
7. Continue the above for about 2-3 minutes, and then take the toy and put it away. You want to end the fun before your Labradoodle gets tired of the game, and while he is still building anticipation getting for the toy.
8. Repeat the above a few times a day as you have time. Always give a good amount of time in between intervals, so that the your Australian Labradoodle has relaxed, calm, “bored” time between each play session.
9. As you play the game, slowly allow your Labradoodle to get the toy. You will be allowing him access to it in tiny increments, i.e. first time he might get his mouth on it for a second before you take it away, second time he might get his mouth on for 2-3 seconds, before you take it away, etc. Work on building this up until the dog is holding the toy in his mouth and you can engage in some tug play.
10. Remember to act particularly excited and goofy when your Labradoodle does get his mouth on the toy. You want to work on hyping him up at these moments so he builds up a desire to have and hold the toy in his mouth.
11. Always end the game while your Australian Labradoodle is still active and happy. Again, the idea is to leave your Labradoodle always wanting more and anticipating more, rather than ending when he feels like it and is tired and bored.

Now Go Play